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To Slam or not to Slam Opinions please

#1 User is offline   sceptic 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 06:15


Scoring: IMP


West North East South

 -     -     -     1
 Pass  4    Pass  4
 Pass  Pass  Pass  



1/. is my splinter any good? (we do not play exclusion)

2/. is game best contract?

half the slams made half went down

How would you bid this playing 2/1
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#2 User is offline   paulg 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 06:35

There is always debate on the strength required for a splinter but I don't think it works if you are too strong. I prefer that they show closer to a minimum for the level of the bid.

In this case, what do you expect your partner to bid after 4? Holding at most one ace he is unlikely to do anything other than bid 4 and you have no idea about the level that you want to play in.

So I think it would be better to start with 2 initially, go slower and learn more about the hand. As you imply, it is unclear whether slam is that good but you'd like to have made a more informed decision.

As it happens, if the auction goes 1-2-2-4=splinter at least focuses partner's mind on the importance of diamond honours, but I would make another try after the 4 sign-off and play in 5 or 6.

p
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#3 User is offline   kenrexford 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 06:39

The splinter is not so good unless partner is expcted to visualize three Aces and a semi-solid suit of the side, which is unlikely. In other words, you are probably way too good for a splinter.

Using 2/1 GF, the stande-out is a simple 2. Now, theories and styles diverge, but the end result is the same. Opener will either rebid 3 or 2, depending on style. In either event, you are probably forced to rebid 3. However, after 2 (using that style), you might now consider a splinter, perhaps, as this would imply a strong diamond holding and/or stronger splinter, perhaps.

In any event, after 3, you still will have quite a daunting task. Opener's next call will probably indicate that he lacks the spade King or shortness in spades. There is not much in the way of room to break this one down.

For my part, I'd suggest that the luckiest pair on this hand uses a technique where 3 cannot be bid, opener instead temporizing with 2. Responder can then splinter into diamonds, focusing the shortness and the quality of the diamonds. If Opener resigns to 4, Responder might stab again with 4. This sounds a lot like the hand described.
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#4 User is offline   zasanya 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 07:42

Splinter is not a good idea as unless P has K she is forced to bid 4.If she has K slam or grand slam is possible.If she has K and reasonable trumps slam is possible.The way to pass this information could be through the following 2/1 sequence.
1-2-3-3-4 and now 5.
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#5 User is offline   P_Marlowe 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 08:43

Hi,

#1 no, the hand is to strong, if possible,
make a forcing raise, else go via 2D
#2 trumps 2-2 you are home, and the slam
is probably better than that since I am
not very good in judging those things, i.e.
slam is quite ok
Discovering the club shortage / club wastage
you will most likely end up in 4H

With kind regards
Marlowe
With kind regards
Uwe Gebhardt (P_Marlowe)
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#6 User is offline   inquiry 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 09:56

1. Yes, you are much, much too strong for a splinter bid. This is a topic often discussed on the BBF... last time i discussed it was...

http://forums.bridgebase.com/index.php?sho...ndpost&p=180425

Quote

2/. is game best contract?

half the slams made half went down

How would you bid this playing 2/1


On this hand, double dummy, the best contract is 7. In seven the line of play is quite hair-raising, but might work even in six. Let's assume club queen lead (as good as any), ruff in dummy. Heart ACE and spy the drop of heart queen. I may need to ruff some clubs in dummy, so I will try to set up diamond for a spade discard by beginning with diamond ACE and diamond Queen, planning on throwing spade loser if not covered. Rather covered or not, note the fall of the diamond TEN-EIGHT from LHO. If covered, ruff a club with the HEART TEN, if not covered, lead the diamond Jack, and ruff. Eventually, when EAST covers a diamond, ruff another club with the TEN (unblock), and lead the diamond 7 forcing a cover, ruff, cross to the A, cash the good (winning 3 's), then hook the J by playing 8 towards you K9, and your only other two cards are AK. All in all you win 1, 5, 3, 2 and 2 ruffs for 13 tricks.

The diamond play seems reasonable line in six as if the ruffing finessee if off, you still ditch a loser on loser (spade pitch), and you score 2D, 1S, 5H, 2C, and 2 C ruffs (12 tricks). You could try similar line with straight diamond hook. And should West have QJ doubleton heart you avoid the misguess on the ruffing finessee. And setting up a long diamond is better odds if diamonds split 4-3 is helpful on lots of lines.

How would i bid it...?

1H-2D
2H-3H
4C-4D
4S-4N
5H-6H
P

4C = denies spade control, promises club control, no slam interest
4D = slam try, promises spade control
4H = i am bad even for the current bidding
4N = we try anyway
5H = 2 keycards, no heart queen
6H = ok, ZAR says I got to bid this one... We have super fit, you have at least 26 ZARS, I have 35 plus our super fit points have to be at least 8 and probably closer to 10. That comes to 79 ZARS to 81 ZARS, enough for GRAND SLAM but we are missing the trump queen so six is enough.
--Ben--

#7 User is offline   cherdano 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 12:03

You are waaaaay too strong to splinter, unless you plan to bid on over 4. A splinter usually shows around 10-12(13) hcp, a singleton, and 4 trumps. Instead you have a void, 15 hcp including THREE ACES, and an excellent 5-card suit.
2 is a reasonable way to start and would be my choice; the other plan would be to splinter 4 and give it another try with 5 over 4, showin a substantially stronger splinter.
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#8 User is offline   jdonn 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 12:06

I actually think it is reasonable to splinter and just bid 6 over partner's 4. Slam may not always be great, but often will and should just about always have a play (it will rarely be worse than a diamond finesse I believe). And it makes sense to give up on the grand when partner signs off after your splinter. So why not make things simple?

Agree with others that it's ok to start with a different bid on north's hand, but if you splinter on a hand this good you have to be bidding again.
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#9 User is offline   skjaeran 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 13:48

Minisplinters are widely used here. Many misuse these on stronger hands than just game inv. With my previous partner we used mini-maxi splinters.

1M-4m/1-4/1-3 then showed a void and gamegoing values only, while jumps to the 3-level where 2-way: Either a minisplinter showing a singleton and gameinv values or a void and too strong for a direct voidshowing splinter. With stronger hands with a singleton we bid 2NT (GF raise).

Here we would bid:
1 - 3
3 - 3 (3=short isn't great but game is ok, 3=cue, confirming void and slammish)
4 - ? (4=last train)

Responder would have to evaluate here. We might stop in game or bid slam.
Kind regards,
Harald
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#10 User is offline   SoTired 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 13:51

I don't think the splinter hurt anything, but it did not provide much useful info. With such a strong hand and 1st round control in all 4 suits(!!!), responder wants to play 6H opposite almost any 1H opener that includes a heart honor or 6-card suit. So responder is mostly interested only in baby/grand decision. Think about it: All responder needs for grand is K and KQxxx and responder can count 13 tricks (1+5+5+2 club ruffs).

Are you playing ERKC? If so, Respond J2N (or whatever) initially, then jump to 5C ERKC. If opener shows 1 keycard, ask for Q. Since that shows 4-card support, opener can show Q with Kxxxxx or KQxxx.

The major problem is if opener shows 0 keycards, you won't have the room to find out opener may hold Jxxxx, but that is so unlikely, I would not worry about it.

In the subject hand, after the 4C splinter and opener tries to sign-off in 4H, responder should just bid 6H. Passing was very timid.
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#11 User is offline   the hog 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 16:56

"I actually think it is reasonable to splinter and just bid 6♥ over partner's 4♥."

If you are going to bid 6H over 4H why bother splintering in the first place, to tell the opps know you are short in C? Far better to start with 2D to show that suit is a potential source of tricks.
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#12 User is offline   cherdano 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 17:54

The_Hog, on Apr 8 2007, 04:56 PM, said:

"I actually think it is reasonable to splinter and just bid 6♥ over partner's 4♥."

If you are going to bid 6H over 4H why bother splintering in the first place, to tell the opps know you are short in C? Far better to start with 2D to show that suit is a potential source of tricks.

Uhm. Let me guess. I guess because Josh wants to try for 7 in case partner doesn't bid 4 only.

Josh, did I guess right?
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#13 User is offline   the hog 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 18:45

♠ 7x
♥ KQJ43
D Kx
♣ KJT6

Would he bid more than 4H with this Arend?
edited:
Ok I added 1 more D and 1 less C and gave him the J of H.
He will still sign off, and now you miss an excellent grand.
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#14 User is offline   jdonn 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 19:22

The_Hog, on Apr 8 2007, 05:56 PM, said:

"I actually think it is reasonable to splinter and just bid 6♥ over partner's 4♥."

If you are going to bid 6H over 4H why bother splintering in the first place, to tell the opps know you are short in C? Far better to start with 2D to show that suit is a potential source of tricks.

Because you found out partner didn't like your splinter, which tells you a grand is very unlikely. I didn't say it's impossible but I am no longer interested in looking. And likewise if partner had done anything else we would be well placed with that information as well.

By the way, play 7 on your example with a spade lead. Admittedly having just having glanced briefly, do you see something better than needing 4-3 diamonds and 2-2 hearts? Enjoy your 12% grands.

Good call Arend!
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#15 User is offline   the hog 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 20:12

Ok Just change the hand slightly, and still give opener C values and he will still sign off in 4H. He will never be able to evaluate the true worth of the DK. The fact is that the splinter is a lazy bid holding such a potential source of tricks in D.
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#16 User is offline   jdonn 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 22:09

Please tell me your auction to bid that grand but not bid it if partner lacks the jack of hearts (in which case you are up to a sparkling 34% or so grand with some slight extra chances, you could very generously call it 40%.)

Or are you implying that you are bidding 7 100% if partner has the three cards you are missing? Don't forget your original example...
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#17 User is offline   the hog 

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Posted 2007-April-08, 23:06

This discussion is somewhat pointless as you are clearly not prepared to accept the argument that splintering and the bidding 6 over a sign off means that you will miss a good grand opposite many hands pd could have. What do you lose by going via 2D?

However to humour you:

1H-2D
2H-3H
3N-4C
4D-4N
5D-5S
6C-7H

3N frivolous, 4C cue, 4D cue and not small s/t as it is in pd's suit,
4N KC, 5D = 1, 5S = Q of trump ask, 6C = "yes & Knave", but no extra trump length.
You would have to be stiff not to find a hand where the grand doesn't have a good play.
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#18 User is offline   EricK 

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Posted 2007-April-09, 00:00

There are certain hands where your thoughts should be along the lines of "I am bidding this hand to slam unless I find very good evidence that it won't be a good contract.". A five loser hand with good controls and primary support for opener's suit is one such hand. Given that, you need to come up with a sequence which supplies you with this information. There is also the question of small slam or grand which needs answering.

Does a splinter really help anwer either of these questions? I think not. There are plenty of minimum opening hands with honours which make a grand slam a laydown never mind the small slam! Since K is such a useful card for partner, it makes sense to start with 2. Then if you can start a cuebidding sequence, partner can tell you if he has the K. Another approach is to use a J2NT response. Then if partner shows no shortage or a shortage other than, a cuebidding sequence should also identify the K if he has it.
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#19 User is offline   jdonn 

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Posted 2007-April-09, 00:06

The_Hog, on Apr 9 2007, 12:06 AM, said:

This discussion is somewhat pointless as you are clearly not prepared to accept the argument that splintering and the bidding 6 over a sign off means that you will miss a good grand opposite many hands pd could have. What do you lose by going via 2D?

However to humour you:

1H-2D
2H-3H
3N-4C
4D-4N
5D-5S
6C-7H

3N frivolous, 4C cue, 4D cue and not small s/t as it is in pd's suit,
4N KC, 5D = 1, 5S = Q of trump ask, 6C = "yes & Knave", but no extra trump length.
You would have to be stiff not to find a hand where the grand doesn't have a good play.

Lol I don't know what I like more, the jack of trumps showing bid (why would anyone ever want to show outside kings when they can show the trump jack), or the fact you had no idea if partner's keycard was the heart king or club ace.

You are right, this discussion is clearly pointless :(
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#20 User is offline   awm 

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Posted 2007-April-09, 01:36

Of course grand is good opposite:

Kxx
KQxxx
Kx
Kxx

I'm not sure I'd cuebid over a splinter with this hand (sure it's a little better than a minimum opener, but the club king is wasted).

Then again grand is also good opposite:

KQJx
KQJxx
x
xxx

and I'm not sure this hand would be excited by a 2 bid followed by a raise.

On the other hand, if you know partner will bid 2 over 1-2 on all minimums, then you're probably fairly safe to start with the 2 bid. If partner rebids 2 you can splinter (4) next, and if partner bids above 2 you're definitely in "looking for grand" mode (not to say you can't stop in six if partner has the worst possible hand with extras).
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