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Bid NT missing stoppers in two suits? Natural Bidding
#1
Posted Yesterday, 11:51
Hi all.
As dealer and playing 2/1 gf, I held:
♠Q109x ♥QJ ♦K1087 ♣1098
Despite the lovely intermediates, we do not open on hands like this, and the bidding went:
P, (P), 1♦ 4+, (2♠ weak), 3♦
My partner was unsure about my 3♦ bid although obviously I have the points and the trump support for that bid. BUT our game (if we have one) is likely to be in no trump, so perhaps her relatively tentative suggestion in the autopsy of 2N is a better bid for me. It pretty much guarantees a spade stopper (third-round but certain). HOWEVER, my hand is skimpy in terms of HCPs, and moreover it has no stoppers in either of the unbid suits. Is it reasonable for me to expect partner to hold stoppers in both unbid suits? Moreover, if partner does not have the points for game opposite a passed hand, a bid in no trump does not invite the usually safer suit partial because partner will then have no clue about my good support in diamonds.
#2
Posted Yesterday, 11:54
3♦ is the normal bid. If partner has enough strength to try for game over this, 3♠ inquires about your spade stopper.
The other two suits are not relevant on this auction. There is not enough space to resolve all, so focus on the suit that's threatened. Neither you nor your partner should be asking any questions about stoppers in clubs or hearts on this auction.
The other two suits are not relevant on this auction. There is not enough space to resolve all, so focus on the suit that's threatened. Neither you nor your partner should be asking any questions about stoppers in clubs or hearts on this auction.
#3
Posted Yesterday, 12:02
I'm going to have to disagree a little about the normality of 3D. A 4-4 fit at the 3-level isn't all that wonderful and although there are nice intermediates, they are defensive intermediates. The only real strong offensive cards are the K10 of diamonds.
Holding this hand, I would pass, and if partner can double back in then I would try 2NT. If he can't double back in, 2S won't be a lot of fun for declarer.
Holding this hand, I would pass, and if partner can double back in then I would try 2NT. If he can't double back in, 2S won't be a lot of fun for declarer.
#4
Posted Yesterday, 13:21
JeffMorrow, on 2026-August-27, 11:51, said:
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Hi all.
As dealer and playing 2/1 gf, I held:
♠Q109x ♥QJ ♦K1087 ♣1098
if partner does not have the points for game opposite a passed hand, a bid in no trump does not invite the usually safer suit partial because partner will then have no clue about my good support in diamonds.
Hi all.
As dealer and playing 2/1 gf, I held:
♠Q109x ♥QJ ♦K1087 ♣1098
if partner does not have the points for game opposite a passed hand, a bid in no trump does not invite the usually safer suit partial because partner will then have no clue about my good support in diamonds.
My personal rule is: After a competitive auction, we do not declare 2NT. We either move toward game or chicken out in 3 of a suit.
That works well here, once you have decided to be aggressive.
#5
Posted Yesterday, 13:36
DavidKok, on 2026-August-27, 11:54, said:
3♦ is the normal bid. If partner has enough strength to try for game over this, 3♠ inquires about your spade stopper.
The other two suits are not relevant on this auction. There is not enough space to resolve all, so focus on the suit that's threatened. Neither you nor your partner should be asking any questions about stoppers in clubs or hearts on this auction.
The other two suits are not relevant on this auction. There is not enough space to resolve all, so focus on the suit that's threatened. Neither you nor your partner should be asking any questions about stoppers in clubs or hearts on this auction.
Great point that there is no room to deal with unbid suits. Focus on known threat.
Also a great point about Western cue bid. We dont play them, but maybe we should study them.
Thank you.
#6
Posted Yesterday, 13:42
WasWinM, on 2026-August-27, 12:02, said:
I'm going to have to disagree a little about the normality of 3D. A 4-4 fit at the 3-level isn't all that wonderful and although there are nice intermediates, they are defensive intermediates. The only real strong offensive cards are the K10 of diamonds.
Holding this hand, I would pass, and if partner can double back in then I would try 2NT. If he can't double back in, 2S won't be a lot of fun for declarer.
Holding this hand, I would pass, and if partner can double back in then I would try 2NT. If he can't double back in, 2S won't be a lot of fun for declarer.
Very interesting take. Yes, after the 2S preempt, there is a strong argument to let the opponents struggle in 2S if partner is minimum. My hand is below average in strength. So, if partner is minimum, we are very unlikely to have game anywhere. Law of total tricks says to avoid 3D with a 4-4 fit. If partner is not minimum and wants to compete without a lot of diamonds, she can double. Then, after the double, I know opener is not long in diamonds and the most likely game is 3N. So, a bid of 2S disclosing the spade stopper makes the most sense when she does not repeat diamonds.
Thank you.
#7
Posted Yesterday, 14:02
bluenikki, on 2026-August-27, 13:21, said:
My personal rule is: After a competitive auction, we do not declare 2NT. We either move toward game or chicken out in 3 of a suit.
That works well here, once you have decided to be aggressive.
That works well here, once you have decided to be aggressive.
Thank you for replying. I am not sure I fully understand, however.
I get that there is a reason to pass (see prior comment). Are you arguing against pass and recommending instead that you cannot allow low-level preempts to steal the contract so bid the 3-level suit as a close out bid or else bid 2n or 4 of a suit as a game force?
Sorry to be so dense!
#8
Posted Yesterday, 14:12
Great question
I would recommend some basic books on competitive bidding
You might start with the Mike Lawrence book on the subject and then move on to others.
---------
For starters, partner has opened, opponents have preemptively bid, now what?
First value your hand, is it?
Really weak=pass
Less than invitational=consider making a simple raise
Invitational raise values= just bid game somewhere
Game force raise= cuebid
_--------
Consider do you have a decent hand and your own long suit?=bid it
Consider a negative double
At least this is a start
Good luck
I would recommend some basic books on competitive bidding
You might start with the Mike Lawrence book on the subject and then move on to others.
---------
For starters, partner has opened, opponents have preemptively bid, now what?
First value your hand, is it?
Really weak=pass
Less than invitational=consider making a simple raise
Invitational raise values= just bid game somewhere
Game force raise= cuebid
_--------
Consider do you have a decent hand and your own long suit?=bid it
Consider a negative double
At least this is a start
Good luck
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