what's your bid? south open 1h you are west
.....................................................................................................................
Dealer:
South
Vul:
None
Scoring:
MP
firts seat do you open with this hand?
.......................................................................................................................
[FONT=Courier]
Scoring: MP
♠
A2
♥
Q753
♦
AK8
♣
AK98
what's your bid? south open 1h you are west
.....................................................................................................................
[FONT=Courier]
Dealer:
South
Vul:
None
Scoring:
MP
you open in secon seat . so auction is pass 1h 1s 2d pass. do you continue with 3c or you pass?
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[FONT=Courier]
1) Double (bid NT later), wtp?
2) Of course. Never pass a hand with three aces.
3) 2H.
4) HA and ruff a heart. Cash all minor Aces and Kings and cross-ruff (ruff D with SAK, and ruff H with small spades). You count 7S+1H+2D+2C.
1. Double is the textbook auction, but this does sometimes cause trouble when partner bids spades. I'd go with double though.
2. I'd open 1♦.
3. Unless you've explicitly agreed otherwise, 2♦ should be forcing. I'd bid 2♥, since a 3♣ call would force partner to take preference at the three-level and should show extras (it's a high reverse).
4. I would win the lead and cash two top diamonds ending in hand. The plan is to ruff two diamonds high to set up the suit. If diamonds are 4-2 or better and trumps no worse than 4-1, the contract is cold. If everything behaves (diamonds no worse than 4-2, trumps 3-2) then I will take all the tricks. In any case even if suits don't break there are numerous alternative chances to make twelve tricks.
3. 2♥. Must say first you have a min, and then, if pard carries on, you'll bid your clubs, completing the hand description. This is not textbook; textbooks "cleverly" avoid these problems
4. Ruff 2 diamonds high seems good to me, but ruff a heart in hand first before playing a diamond up. If the ♦Q or 10 falls 1st round, hinting at a 5-1 break, the heart ruff at trick 2 may pay dividends. Switch to a dummy-reversal line of ruffing the 3rd heart low, a club high, back to dummy in trumps and another club high. Then pull trumps and play the last club. NOTE: just gave this 1 min of thought so it might be wrong... lol.
#1 Does a double followed by 1nt here show a balanced hand 18-19 rather than a direct 1nt showing 15-17?
ty jb
It is not because things are difficult that we do not dare, it is because we do not dare that they are difficult.
Bridge should be fun!
SHAPE!
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." (MH)
First of all I thank you for your answers. Second I love you and the forum for bil beacuase I learned and still learn a lot from reading this forum. After I red answers to my questions always seems clear but at tbl looks to me more complicated
Now my bil thoughts and regrets:
First board: things that confused me here:1. I wasn't short in opponnents suit to use as take out double and no range for 1nt. I add my points to opener points and got like 32-33 and thought my pard and the opps should be empty hands so I was totaly in the dark of what to bid. Now after red the ansewers I remember the option for double with 17+ points than bid your suit so in my case the hand fit the nt bid after double.
Second board: just a regret here: I open 1d then a pass my pard bid 1h then an x and bid 2h. My pard had an openning hand so he jump to 4h and of course trumps didn't stay well and other things and my pard fail the contract. The thing here is I regreted I open this hand when I saw my pard jumping in 4h.
Third board:Another 12 points not so nice to open but I did. Here I saw a misfit and I was afraid to bid 3c because of high level and afraid to bid 2h for the reason of not make my pard thinking I have 6 hearts. Next thing in competitive auction Im not always sure to take a 2 level bid new suit of my pard as forcing but now I know and I will.
Fourth board: I was afraid to play my minor suits winners and then to do cross ruff because of 3h bid however seems clear and easy the line now. I usually count in all suits but 3h made me thinking of a weird distribution.
You shouldn't have any regrets about the second board. It is normal to play in game and go down, especially with trumps breaking badly. Your hand is a minimum for 2H, but not even a very bad one (aces are always great, worth a bit more than 4 pts for suit play).
Arend
The easiest way to count losers is to line up the people who talk about loser count, and count them. -Kieran Dyke
1. Double - planning 1N after 1♠. This isn't that great of a hand and I wouldn't be surprised to go down in whatever we bid.
2. 1♦. 3 aces is a mandatory opener.
3. 2♥ and await developments. 3♣ is asking for trouble. My opponents pass these hands all the time and they always seem to get a good result. Most of the time this is because I'm afraid to balance since one of the opps has passed a forcing bid. Invariably, opener has a bare 12 and responder has a bare minimum and they make exactly 8 tricks. I'm usually on tilt for the next few hands after this.
4. I thought about reversing the dummy here, but I think I run into trouble on some 4-1 trump breaks. I'll play ♦K, ♦A, ruff ♦ high and see what happens. I can't see how this can be worse than a straight crossruff.
Second board: just a regret here: I open 1d then a pass my pard bid 1h then an x and bid 2h. My pard had an openning hand so he jump to 4h and of course trumps didn't stay well and other things and my pard fail the contract. The thing here is I regreted I open this hand when I saw my pard jumping in 4h.
It is important to realise that if you never go down in game then you are not bidding nearly enough games.
what's your bid? south open 1h you are west
.....................................................................................................................
firts seat do you open with this hand?
.......................................................................................................................
[FONT=Courier]
what's your bid? south open 1h you are west
.....................................................................................................................
[FONT=Courier]
you open in secon seat . so auction is pass 1h 1s 2d pass. do you continue with 3c or you pass?
.......................................................................................................................
[FONT=Courier]
West North East South
- - 3♥ 3♠
Pass 4NT Pass 5♠
Pass 6♠ Pass Pass
Pass
how do you play this? lead 10 of hearts
best regards
jocdelevat
best regards
jocdelevat
#2
hrothgar
Cooking
Brewing
Hiking
Posted 2006-September-12, 20:12
2. 1♦
3. 2♦ is forcing, so you must bid
All of these seem obvious
#3
mike777
Posted 2006-September-12, 20:15
hrothgar, on Sep 12 2006, 09:12 PM, said:
2. 1♦
3. 2♦ is forcing, so you must bid
All of these seem obvious
I agree but this is beginner section, so nothing, nothing is obvious.
In fact I would expect all of these bids to be difficult for any new player. The bridge logic behind all of these bids is important and not that easy.
#4
HeartA
Posted 2006-September-12, 20:56
2) Of course. Never pass a hand with three aces.
3) 2H.
4) HA and ruff a heart. Cash all minor Aces and Kings and cross-ruff (ruff D with SAK, and ruff H with small spades). You count 7S+1H+2D+2C.
#5
awm
Posted 2006-September-12, 21:09
2. I'd open 1♦.
3. Unless you've explicitly agreed otherwise, 2♦ should be forcing. I'd bid 2♥, since a 3♣ call would force partner to take preference at the three-level and should show extras (it's a high reverse).
4. I would win the lead and cash two top diamonds ending in hand. The plan is to ruff two diamonds high to set up the suit. If diamonds are 4-2 or better and trumps no worse than 4-1, the contract is cold. If everything behaves (diamonds no worse than 4-2, trumps 3-2) then I will take all the tricks. In any case even if suits don't break there are numerous alternative chances to make twelve tricks.
a.k.a. Appeal Without Merit
#6
whereagles
Posted 2006-September-13, 02:41
2. 1♦, wtp? Textbook again
3. 2♥. Must say first you have a min, and then, if pard carries on, you'll bid your clubs, completing the hand description. This is not textbook; textbooks "cleverly" avoid these problems
4. Ruff 2 diamonds high seems good to me, but ruff a heart in hand first before playing a diamond up. If the ♦Q or 10 falls 1st round, hinting at a 5-1 break, the heart ruff at trick 2 may pay dividends. Switch to a dummy-reversal line of ruffing the 3rd heart low, a club high, back to dummy in trumps and another club high. Then pull trumps and play the last club. NOTE: just gave this 1 min of thought so it might be wrong... lol.
#7
P_Marlowe
Posted 2006-September-13, 05:35
#2 yes, 1D
#3 2H, 3C should more than
a min. opener
#4 abstain, I seldom comment on play problems
Uwe Gebhardt (P_Marlowe)
#8
inquiry
Posted 2006-September-13, 06:54
2. 1♦ - 6 controls, 3 quick tricks, 28 Zar points. Can't pass. Even Hi-Suit-Cute is
12+8+6=26, four more than needed to open.
3. 2H. 2♦ was forcing, ESPECIALLY in an individual. But I want to keep the bidding low, and sound as weak as possible.
4. Heart Ace, cross ruff.
#9
jillybean
Posted 2006-September-13, 07:48
ty jb
Bridge should be fun!
SHAPE!
"And no matter what methods you play, it is essential, for anyone aspiring to learn to be a good player, to learn the importance of bidding shape properly." (MH)
#10
whereagles
Posted 2006-September-13, 07:58
#11
jocdelevat
Posted 2006-September-13, 08:49
Now my bil thoughts and regrets:
First board: things that confused me here:1. I wasn't short in opponnents suit to use as take out double and no range for 1nt. I add my points to opener points and got like 32-33 and thought my pard and the opps should be empty hands so I was totaly in the dark of what to bid. Now after red the ansewers I remember the option for double with 17+ points than bid your suit so in my case the hand fit the nt bid after double.
Second board: just a regret here: I open 1d then a pass my pard bid 1h then an x and bid 2h. My pard had an openning hand so he jump to 4h and of course trumps didn't stay well and other things and my pard fail the contract. The thing here is I regreted I open this hand when I saw my pard jumping in 4h.
Third board:Another 12 points not so nice to open but I did. Here I saw a misfit and I was afraid to bid 3c because of high level and afraid to bid 2h for the reason of not make my pard thinking I have 6 hearts. Next thing in competitive auction Im not always sure to take a 2 level bid new suit of my pard as forcing but now I know and I will.
Fourth board: I was afraid to play my minor suits winners and then to do cross ruff because of 3h bid however seems clear and easy the line now. I usually count in all suits but 3h made me thinking of a weird distribution.
best regards
jocdelevat
best regards
jocdelevat
#12
cherdano
Posted 2006-September-13, 09:02
Arend
#13
pclayton
Posted 2006-September-13, 09:32
2. 1♦. 3 aces is a mandatory opener.
3. 2♥ and await developments. 3♣ is asking for trouble. My opponents pass these hands all the time and they always seem to get a good result. Most of the time this is because I'm afraid to balance since one of the opps has passed a forcing bid. Invariably, opener has a bare 12 and responder has a bare minimum and they make exactly 8 tricks. I'm usually on tilt for the next few hands after this.
4. I thought about reversing the dummy here, but I think I run into trouble on some 4-1 trump breaks. I'll play ♦K, ♦A, ruff ♦ high and see what happens. I can't see how this can be worse than a straight crossruff.
#14
EricK
Posted 2006-September-13, 11:50
jocdelevat, on Sep 13 2006, 02:49 PM, said:
It is important to realise that if you never go down in game then you are not bidding nearly enough games.
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